Friday, 2 November 2012

wind breaks

As I sit and write looking out over the Dart estuary the sky is grey and the rain is falling and has been since the early hoursof this morning, this is the first sicnificant rain for approxamatly four months.

The last few months have given cause for concern, as watering the plot or garden has become a chore, though it does give one a chance to get up close and personal with the plants, constant watering simply can’t replace a good nights rain. Most of the vegatable garden has not thrived and would appear in part to have just hung on. The wind on our exposed plot has been a majour factor in the ground drying out.

In the flower garden we erected live willow screens and planted hardy perenial sunflowers to help filter the wind. The former was ordered on line from a willow grower in somerset and then planted as one would take hard wood cuttings, due to lack of time one bundel was left to saok in the water butt over night, well over night turned into three weeks, so when we came to weave the second fence we dicovered that thin white roots had formed.

Needles to say when the screen was planted and thourghly soaked it soon caught up with and over took its predecessor.

Perrenial sunflowers are a close relation to the jerusalem artichoke and make a thick screen, ours are shielding the gladioli bed, but beware like its cousin, once established it will if given a chance take over the garden. This can be remidied by just thining out with a spade in the winter.

In researching material for this months article I discovered a new term to me,

xeriscaping the word is a portmanteau of xeros
ξήρος (Greek for "dry") and landscaping, and xeriscape refers to a method of landscape design that minimizes water use.

Plants whose natural requirements are appropriate to the local climate are emphasized, and care is taken to avoid losing water to evaporation and run-off. The specific plants used in xeriscaping depend upon the climate.

The Xeriscape concept is based on The Seven Principles:
1. Plan and design
Create a diagram, drawn to scale, that shows the major elements of your landscape, including house, drive, deck or patio, existing trees etc.

Once finished, develop a planting plan that reinforces the areas in the appropriate scale.

2. Soil amendment

Most plants will benefit from the use of compost, which will help the soil retain water.

3. Efficient irrigation

Xeriscape can be irrigated efficiently by hand or with an automatic sprinkler system

If you water by hand, avoid oscillating sprinklers and other sprinklers that throw water high in the air or release a fine mist. The most efficient sprinklers release big drops close to the ground.

Water deeply and infrequently to develop deep roots. Never water during the day to reduce water lost to evaporation.

4. Appropriate plant and zone selection

Different areas in your yard receive different amounts of light, wind and moisture. To minimize water waste, group together plants with similar light and water requirements, and place them in an area that matches these requirements. Put moderate-water-use plants in low-lying drainage areas, near downspouts, or in the shade of other plants. Your turf will require the most water and shrub/perennial beds will require approximately half the amount of water. Dry, sunny areas support low-water-use plants that grow well in our climate. Planting a variety of plants with different heights, color and textures creates interest and beauty.

5. Mulch

Mulch keeps plant roots cool, prevents soil from crusting, minimizes evaporation and reduces weed growth. Organic mulches, such as garden compost or composted green waste, which can be bought locally in bag or bulk load form,should be applied 2 to 4 inches deep. Fiber mulches create a web that is more resistant to wind and rain washout

6. Alternative turf

many lawn and grass areas have suffered this spring but don’t worry as it will return to a fine green sward by the autumn.

7. Maintenance

All landscapes require some degree of care during the year. Keep your grass height at 3 inches and allow the clippings to fall. Trees, shrubs and perennials will need occasional pruning to remove dead stems, promote blooming or control height and spread. Much of the removed plant material can be shredded and used in composting piles.




Robinson's most famous contribution to gardening was his book The English Flower Garden, which he published in 1883. He encouraged his readers to aim for a less strictly structured garden, arguing that "the best kind of garden grows out of the situation, as the primrose grows out a cool bank"(69). While Robinson favoured "wild" gardens, he felt that grouping flowers together in an artful way was important. The greatest contribution of the book was probably the introduction of the "herbaceous border" which most gardeners are quite familiar with.